Home--Reflections

Last Sunset

First Leg of Our Journey Home

Home, comforts...the odd realization that time truly does slow down in Thailand, especially in the south, on these islands, beaches, small villages... Our journey home was long, but at least the first leg of the journey was fun. We took a long tail boat ride from the east side of Railey Beach to Ao Nang Pier; wading through the water with luggage (and help) to the awaiting water taxi. Now we are home, reflecting and adding one last blog: Reflections on a Better Itinerary For Us--Hindsight.

OUR Do Over

• Arrive Bangkok and immediately take a connecting flight to Chiang Mai (do not take the train--seriously--and if you do, do not eat yellow custard filled buns.)
• In Chiang Mai, get use to Thai culture and take language lessons at one of the many schools providing such activities for farangs (foreigners)--it will be vital in connecting to the Thais and earning their respect
• Spend mornings learning Thai and afternoons practicing the language at various sights
• Visit the Street Markets, bargain and then pay full price anyway...they could use the surprise and it will be a blessing to you in the long run. Also, try not to buy too much because most of it is crap made in a factory without concern for the environment
• Hire a taxi for the day to see the sights--Wats, Winter Palace...
• Take two cooking classes in Chiang Mai--because you'll be sorry if you don't
• Spend at least one day at the Elephant Sanctuary (the nonprofit in town dedicated to rehabilitating elephants)...it will change your life--if you are able spend a few nights at the Sanctuary helping out as a volunteer: http://www.elephantnaturepark.org/
  
• Go to Pai and Mae Hong Son (especially in November when the yellow flowers are in bloom all over the hills)--We got very sick in the north so this part was regretfully missed
• Fly from Chiang Mai to Phuket for 3 days max: a day to settle in, a day at Surin Beach and at least one day spent with John Gray Corporation kayaking through sea caves
• Fly to Ko Phi Phi for two days if crowded (it truly is lovely) or more if the crowds are low or your tolerance high
  
• Take a ferry to Ko Lanta and spend a few days learning to ride a motorcycle, carefully. Watch a few sunsets at least. And if time allows take a tour of the mangroves (we ran out of time)
• Take a speed boat to Ko Ngai...spend a lifetime or at least 5 days doing nothing, but breathing...(we stayed at Mayalay Resort...Thai owned, overpriced, but lovely, rugged and maybe the only resort that doesn't put out rat poisoning to kill the sweet dogs that live there--or so we were told)
  
• Take a speed boat back to Ko Lanta and then a ferry to Railey Beach...the views are worth the crowds
• Climb the view point cliff while at Railey (if I can do it, you can)...rent a Kayak for the day and check out the coves, other beaches...
• Take a flight from Krabi to Bangkok
• Now you are ready for Bangkok: check out Chinatown, the Flower Market, take a canal boat whenever possible, and when a Tuk Tuk driver lies to you (and he will) say no thanks I'll walk, but here is 50 baht for your advice. They are poor and abused...they need positive reinforcement from tourist to transition into more desired behavior...who wouldn't be like them in their situation
• Fly home...and pass your knowledge on like an anthropologist and not like a fat, horny, drunk old man

NEVER, EVER DO THIS: 1) feed or ride elephants or support the elephant tourist industry in anyway other than being a support to nonprofits that are helping these creatures (you are an asshole if you do this because even if they seem well taken care of now they were barbarically tortured in order to prepare them for this horrible existence), 2) never take a long day train, at the very least break it up and remember, flying is cheap and so much better, 3) never litter (in fact you will be amazed at the friends you'll make when you have an uncommissioned trash pick up day).

Thanks for reading our blog...I hope it was

entertaining and maybe even a little useful!

Railay Beach--Life of Riley

Arrival Railey Beach

Life of Riley: an easy and pleasant life. Tom made this connection and it is a perfect phrase to tag the last day of our trip. The sun is about to set and I am sitting under a bamboo covered veranda drinking my second Chang beer and waiting to witness with Tom our last sunset in Thailand.

We had a day of kayaking from bay to bay and from one giant cliff formation to another...I am exhausted, ready to come home and so buzzed with the joy of this place.

Tomorrow we leave the hotel at 7:30 AM: one long tail boat to a dock at Ao Nang, near Krabi, one taxi to the airport, one plane to Bangkok, 3 hour wait, then one plane to Taipei, 2 hour wait, then another plane to Los Angeles, then a shuttle to Santa Barbara, then finally a taxi to our house...it's gonna be a real bitch...time for another Chang.

Railey Beach Formation 1--most photographed

The other side of our beach

View Point of Railey Beach

The hike to the view point...I am a rock climber now

How we spent our last day: this red kayak and many stops--fantastic!

Through a cave

Through leaves...are you bored yet?

Around a corner

How the stalactites are formed...one drip at a time...lots of time


Tom doing some serious rock climbing...or not?

Ko Lanta--A Peaceful Place

Ko Lanta offered us another motorcycle adventure, which ended with no injuries despite sudden changes in the quality of the road: one minute paved the next not, and bumpy, very. Tom and I didn't know we were going to try off road motor biking. We mixed a short afternoon ride south of our hotel to a nature preserve that had a river hiking trek to a magnificent water trickle. Apparently more rain is needed to see an actual water fall. Made for a good laugh and needed exercise. Day two, took us to the island's Old Town, which is a hundred year old port for the Chinese who settled and/or traded here when tourism wasn't the major industry. The Sea Gypsies live near this town. We saw a lot on our two days here; it is a lovely and peaceful island, but the most memorable for me was a child and her grandma playing with a bucket full of baby ducks. They live in a small ramshackle village of what we think is the remains of the Sea Gypsy camp that was significantly wiped out during the tsunami. Really sad. But beautiful, exquisite people. See for yourselves:

Speed boat from Ko Ngai through a giant preserve of mangroves

Arrival at Ko Lanta

Welcome massage at our lovely hotel...very zen called Sri Lanta

Old Town...once a major port for Chinese imagrants

Hammock Heaven

Butcher shop...likely a fresh kill

Child and here grandma...likely Sea Gypsies...there are no tourist signs for this...thankfully

Man carving an axe handle...he was lovely and so sweet

Drying fish for meals
A perfect place to view another 'Chang' sunrise

Ko Ngai--Hotel Puppy

One of the puppies at our hotel

Hands down the most beautiful island we've visited. Ko Ngai (pronounced Ko "Hi") had the most gentle, stunning poetic views. With only 5 hotels on the island and very few visitors, relaxation existed in every step of each day. Our hotel, Mayalay Resort had its own pack of adorable dogs and four 3 month old puppies clamoring over everything and everyone. The hotel has bamboo cottages that are very 'Thai': modest, rugged comforts. Our bathroom built character as it was a porch of sorts off the back of our cottage with no screen to keep the elements out (like peeing in a jungle.) Tom says I did very well...and I did. Thankfully our hut's Templeton rat waited to visit us on the last night. Tom saw it and decided to tell me it was just a mouse. I figured it was bigger, but love him for the lie anyway. I loved this place despite the not so luxurious accommodations (a surprise given this was the most expensive hotel to date.)

We woke each morning one hour before sunrise to the piercing sound of insects that was deafening. Then the roaster crowed for a wee while. Finally, the dogs began their good morning howl. We were up and on the beach for our morning walk before the sun had a chance to even peek over one of the smaller islands that dotted our views. At least one dog (usually more) would greet us with you belong here affection. Sometimes the puppies came along on our walk and tugged at my skirt. The young mother of the litter was just like Ambear, our sweetly missed old girl. I wanted to take her and all the dogs home.

Our biggest adventure was taking a long tail boat to a few small island off of Ko Ngai At Ko Muk, we swam through a pitch black cave to what is called Emerald Cave (a beach within an island.) I have serious bragging rights for doing this, as it was the most terrifying 5 minutes of my life. Our guide had one small flashlight and 8 people clinging around him. It was a fun adventure, but as we were leaving we passed hoards of people (about 40 teenagers from Mylasia) waiting to have their boat's turn in the cave. Maybe we were not that brave.

We had planned to stay 6 nights, but Ko Lanta, a bit north called to us as we realized our time for Thailand adventures was running short. It was the right choice, but as our boat pulled away from the island, I felt terribly sad--I could have stayed longer.

Sunrise Jump! Gotta get some exercise.

Room with....a view and other things.

Our hut!

Sunrise view

Daytime view...breath taking.

Tom swimming with fish...he swam later with a black tip shark...very cool.

Does it get any better than this?

Just like home...a Thailand Ambear...so sweet.

No more pictures!

Good bye Ko Ngai

Ko Phi Phi or Ko Kitty

Rainy arrival...so fun...our first monsoon rain experience

Ko Phi Phi was a pleasant surprise. We knew is was a lovely island, but had heard the tourist crowds made it crazy, annoying...loud. Lucky for us the very popular 'Full Moon' party on Kok Phangan on the other side of Thailand was in full swing so the crowds on Ko Phi Phi were smaller than normal. It was still busy. Tom likes the island a lot, it is nice, comfortable... fun. While here we hiked, took a long tail boat around the island, swam, and snorkeled. We made great new friends from around the world. We had fun...it was like, vacation!

We are off tomorrow to Ko Ngai...a remote island further south with only 5 hotels. It is suppose to be perfect.

Internet service may be weak at this island...so do not worry if you do not hear from us. We will finish our trip near Krabi, Railey Beach. It is a last two day treat. Then a flight to Bangkok and then straight onto our regular flight home.

Cool kitty...they beg to go in...not on the menu.

Blogging in paradise
View of two bays
Beach snap...hike to this beach was a jungle adventure through zillions of mosquitos

Long boat back to our hotel

Fish massage...not my legs...no way

Kitty recovery program needed here

Off Ko Phuket...Limestone Heaven

As we approach the limestone islands off Ko Phuket

Why write when pictures say it all. We took a kayaking journey through a group called the John Gray Corporation. It was very ecotourist and spectacular.

Sea Hawks Diving for Treats


Caused by rain and calcium off edge of cliffs


Happy toes 1 through lagoon entrances


Happy toes 2.


Lagoon


Young monkey--very close--no feeding.


Tom and our guide Alex


Low tide from full moon--usually they kayak in



Tom and Alex our guide



Sunset from inside cave

Offering made inside cave later for full moon.



Dinner on boat...a feast with a greet view.


We have wonderful video that I cannot load today...more later.